Pumpkin sourdough, again

It's pumpkin sourdough season. I bake this every October.

The recipe has evolved. Three years ago I used canned pumpkin and the loaf was wet and dense and sweet. Two years ago I switched to roasted, halved the sugar, and added a long autolyse. Last year I added a pinch of black pepper because of a tip from a reader.

This year's version:

• 400g bread flour, 100g whole wheat
• 250g roasted pumpkin purée (sugar pumpkin, halved, seeded, roasted at 400°F until soft, scooped out, mashed)
• 100g water — start here, add more if needed (pumpkin's water content varies wildly)
• 10g salt
• 100g active starter
• 2 tbsp pumpkin seed oil for the crust (optional, but try it)
• A few cracks of black pepper

Bulk 5 hours at 72°F. Shape into a batard. Cold retard overnight. Bake at 475°F covered, 20 minutes, then 450°F uncovered until deeply browned.

Eaten with butter and salt while standing at the counter, ideally with something simmering on the stove and someone you love in the next room.

— Sarah