The focaccia I make on Saturdays

There's a rhythm to it.

Friday night, around 8:00, I mix 500g of bread flour with 400g of water, 10g of salt, and 100g of starter from the morning feed. Stretch and fold three times across the evening while I'm doing other things. Cover. Leave on the counter.

Saturday morning the dough is alive and a little wobbly. I oil a sheet pan generously — generously, more than you think — pour it in, dimple it with my fingertips, and let it rise while the oven preheats to 475°F.

I top it with whatever the garden has. Right now: cherry tomatoes, halved, with thyme. Last week: olives and lemon zest. In August, peaches and rosemary, if I'm feeling brave.

Twenty-five minutes, deep golden, a little smoke from the olive oil. Lunch by 12:30.

I have made this bread maybe 200 times. It still surprises me.

— Sarah